San Bartolo Coyotepec
Home of Oaxaca's famous black pottery (barro negro)
Overview
San Bartolo Coyotepec is the birthplace of Oaxaca's distinctive black pottery (barro negro), a technique perfected by Doña Rosa Real de Nieto in the 1950s. The village is lined with family workshops where you can watch artisans shape, polish, and fire the clay to achieve its lustrous black finish—no paint or glaze, just smoke-firing in underground kilns. Pieces range from small decorative items ($5-20) to museum-quality sculpture ($200+). The Doña Rosa workshop remains open, and her descendants continue the tradition. Combine with San Martín Tilcajete (alebrijes) for a full craft day.
Highlights
Practical Information
1.5-2 hours
Free
Free workshop visits. Colectivos from Oaxaca run 10-15 pesos. Pieces range from 100 pesos to 4,000+ pesos.
Weekday mornings to see artisans at work. Combine with San Martín Tilcajete (alebrijes) for a full craft village day.
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